What is the "History of Dashi(Broth)"
How Katsuobushi and Kombu Evolved in Japanese Cuisine
Dashi: The Foundation of Japanese Cuisine
In 2013, Washoku: Traditional Japanese Cuisine was inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
While sushi, tempura, and miso soup often get the spotlight, the true foundation of Japanese cooking is dashi — a clear, delicate broth that defines the flavor of Japanese food.
Dashi is made from katsuobushi (dried bonito), kombu (kelp), niboshi (dried sardines), and dried shiitake mushrooms.
Unlike Western stocks or Chinese broths that use chicken, pork, or beef bones, Japanese dashi contains almost no fat. It relies entirely on pure umami extracted from natural ingredients — a signature of Japanese culinary culture.
1. Early History: Katsuobushi and Kombu as Food Ingredients
Long before the modern idea of “taking dashi,” katsuobushi and kombu were already valued throughout Japan.
・Kombu appears in historical records as early as the Nara period (8th century), where it was offered to the imperial court and used in religious rituals.
・Bonito had been processed since ancient times into dried or boiled-and-dried forms — the early prototypes of today’s katsuobushi.
In this era, these ingredients were mainly used as seasonings or mixed directly into dishes, rather than boiled to extract broth.
2. The Middle Ages: Expanding Culinary Uses
From the Heian to Kamakura periods, the use of bonito and kombu evolved.
・Bonito was sometimes eaten raw, similar to early forms of sashimi.
・Kombu became essential in shōjin ryōri (Zen Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), valued for its deep, subtle flavor.
By the Muromachi period, cookbooks began to mention hanakatsuo (shaved bonito flakes), showing that the familiar “shaving and sprinkling” style was already in use.
3. Early Modern Era: The Evolution of Modern Katsuobushi
During the Edo period, katsuobushi production underwent a major transformation.
Fishermen in Wakayama and Tosa (modern-day Kochi) developed the technique of:
smoking → drying → adding mold culture → further drying
This process produced today’s honkarebushi, known for its exceptional aroma and concentrated umami.
Katsuobushi quickly became a staple in both professional kitchens and everyday households.
Kombu distribution also expanded through the historic “Kombu Road,” connecting Hokkaido, Wakasa, and Kyoto.
As a result, kombu became widely used by chefs as a key source of umami.
4. The Birth of Dashi Culture: Katsuobushi × Kombu
The concept of “boiling ingredients to extract umami” — close to modern dashi — appears in texts from the Muromachi to Edo periods.
By the Edo period:
・simmering katsuobushi and kombu for broth became common,
・dashi was used in soups, simmered dishes, and noodle broths,
・cookbooks began describing detailed methods for making ichiban-dashi and niban-dashi.
This era marks the establishment of Japan’s unique dashi culture, the foundation of Japanese cuisine today.
5. Good Fortune Ingredients: The Cultural Meaning of Bonito and Kombu
After the Sengoku period, bonito and kombu gained symbolic meanings:
・bonito (katsuobushi) → associated with “katsu” (to win)
・kombu → associated with “yorokobu” (to be joyful)
They became popular as lucky foods for celebrations and as symbols of good fortune.
In the Edo period, the first bonito of the season even sparked citywide excitement.
Today's Takeaway
・Ancient times: Katsuobushi and kombu were valued as gifts, taxes, and flavoring agents.
・Middle Ages: Their culinary use expanded, with shaved bonito and kombu becoming common.
・Edo period: Major improvements in katsuobushi processing + wide kombu distribution → the birth of authentic dashi culture.
・Modern day: The combination of katsuobushi and kombu forms the essential umami base of Japanese cuisine.
Dashi, with over a thousand years of development, is truly the ultimate expression of Japanese umami.
*Reference: National Diet Library “Kaleidoscope of Books” — Japan’s Dashi Culture and the Discovery of Umami
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