About Taikei Sugar Co., the Keepers of a “Phantom” Sugarcane
Taikei Sugar Co. is committed to preserving and producing the rare native sugarcane variety known as Taikei-shu (literally “thick-stemmed type”)—a crop deeply rooted in the island’s history. From planting and harvesting to processing, bottling, and packaging, every step is done entirely by hand.
Their main products are kibi-su (sugarcane vinegar) and kokutou (unrefined black sugar). Of particular note, Taikei Sugar is the only remaining producer still using traditional methods to make kibi-su.
The Phantom Sugarcane: Taikei-shu
The company takes its name from Taikei-shu, an heirloom variety once common on the island. Unlike modern hybrids, this thick-stemmed cane is harder to handle—it's less flexible, breaks easily, and is more vulnerable to typhoons and pests. As a result, it gradually disappeared from production.
But as Mr. Nakata, the founder, says, “This used to be the only kind we had—and it’s still the best.” Motivated by a desire to bring back the taste of the delicious black sugar and vinegar he remembered from his youth, he founded the company to revive this lost flavor.
Mr. Nakata of Kakeroma Island
Kakeroma Island lies just south of Amami-Oshima, separated only by the Oshima Strait. Born and raised in Kakeroma, Mr. Nakata moved across the strait at age 15 for high school. Upon retirement, driven by his longing for the nostalgic taste of Taikei-shu, he returned to his hometown and began reclaiming the land around his old family home.
He renovated the abandoned house himself, transforming it into a small processing facility. Today, he and his wife handle everything—just the two of them. Almost every day, Mr. Nakata crosses the Oshima Strait by private boat to reach his fields.
The Intensity of Sugarcane Work
From planting and harvesting the cane to processing, bottling, and packaging, every stage is carefully done by hand.
Harvesting alone takes three full days, and boiling the cane to make black sugar requires a full day’s work. After mowing the fields and machine-harvesting the cane, they carry around 100kg of sugarcane by hand each day. Weeds and impurities—things machines can’t remove—are painstakingly taken out by hand.
The juice is extracted by machine, then slowly boiled and processed by hand. Transporting the finished black sugar and bottling the vinegar are also done manually.
Beyond that, they constantly refine their techniques—crafting their own fertilizers, reducing pesticide use, and striving for better flavor every season. Working under the island’s intense summer heat, they never cut corners. It’s this uncompromising dedication that creates the authentic, honest flavor of their products.
